Tuesday, October 23, 2012

Deja vu, back in Tulear




Well there has been a slight change of plans, in that we have not yet returned to Anosimparihy, and we are now in Tulear again. It’s starting to get hot especially here in Tulear, and it’s usually best to avoid going out in the midday sun until after 4pm, when things start to cool down. Piles of unripe mangoes are popping up everywhere on the tables in the marketplace and roadside vendors, but supposedly they’re not safe to eat for those not adapted to unripe mangoes until rain falls for the first time this season.

Mango stand in Mangily

Also, had a strange experience of deja vu, running into the group of SIT students doing the same program I had done exactly 2 years ago, and repeating all of the same experiences; same bus, same restaurants, same staff. It was great to see some of the program staff from when I was in Madagascar 2 years ago, and was happy to be recognized by them.

Also had a little bit of déjà vu, in another trip to Mangily, the tourist village north of Tulear, including another hour long taxi-brousse ride in the back of a small pickup, although this time with a real seat of sorts. This time didn’t get to profit quite so much from the beach, as with the warmer weather and warmer water, the ocean is packed with medusas, or jellyfish. Supposedly they’re not poisonous, but can cause some serious itching if they’re ruptured, and it’s still pretty unnerving to swim surrounded by jellyfish. We took advantage of Hotel Solidaire, a hotel restaurant in Mangily with a pool that non-clients can swim in with the purchase of a drink.

Vezo children playing with miniature pirogues at low tide

Beach in Mangily, Vezo pirogues at sunset
 
It’s funny after spending time in a village, where on a good day you can find eggs, flour, phone credit, or a refrigerated drink after walking 3 km, there is no lack of epiceries or markets here.  Even the difficult-to-find luxuries of ice cream and wifi, which we searched for all over in the towns of Mananjary and Manakara on the east coast, are plentiful here.

Anosimparihy has been in my thoughts, missing the greenness, not to mention the mango and lychee trees that will be coming into season, coffee from the trees surrounding the village, not being heckled by pousse-pousses every time you leave the house (although it seems to be a real source of entertainment for the pousse-pousse pullers when I use my Malagasy to tell them I’m not going far, and it’s apparently not convincing enough, as they still insist on offering a ride, even though my destination is across the street to an epicerie.)

Not sure exactly when we’re going back to Anosimparihy, but until then…. Veloma!

3 comments:

  1. What's with the unripe mangoes? Why are they sold unripe? Do the first rains wash some substance off?

    That is quite amazing to run into another group of SIT students. I guess they were easy to spot though.

    Enjoy round two in Anosimparihy!


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  2. Hey Karen! Valerie here. I was looking at your fb page thinking, "I would really like to read about Karen's experiences in Madagascar, why hasn't she posted about it?" when I remembered you had a blog. D'oh!

    I'm all caught up and wonder how the rest of your trip went since you're back now. It's wonderful to be able to enjoy vicariously through you... I don't think I have the mental (or physical!) fortitude to explore a place so different with a language I'm not fluent in, and I'm amazed how you just put yourself out there. So cool! Did you ever get your bronze bracelet? Do you pay for taxi-brousse or is it like a public service? Hope you'll tell us more!

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  3. Hey Valerie- so you motivated me enough I will try and finish my blog for the experiences of the last couple months in Madagascar. I ended up getting a bronze ring, which apparently works equally well, taxi brousses are paid for although altogether a not expensive way to travel. Thanks for the nudge I will work on those postings :)

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